KYOTO’S FESTIVAL OF TIMELESS ELEGANCE

There is no event quite as exhilarating or as elegant as Kyoto’s “Gion Matsuri”, a festival with great historical significance taking place every year the entire month of July.
Kyoto, along with the rest of the world, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, had to cancel most events. Fortunately however, from this year the Gion Matsuri is taking place in its entirety, demonstrating once again, Kyoto’s resiliency and unwavering strength of spirit.

The festival’s name comes from the historic neighborhood of Gion, which is also the home to Yasaka Shrine, founded over 1,350 years ago. The festival itself also dates back to 869, ironically, as a way to appease “an angry spirit” which was believed to have caused an epidemic which swept through every providence in the country.

Back then, as is now, the month of July was extremely hot, very humid, and prone to torrential downpours. This rainy weather formed ideal conditions for outbreaks of illnesses such as cholera, and malaria. However in those days, instead of the weather conditions at fault, the emperor believed that the angry spirit, or “disease-causing entity” was to blame, spreading illness to punish Kyoto.

Prayers were officially ordered by the emperor, to ask for deliverance and make peace with such a spirit, as well as traditional rituals, still performed today, all part of Japan’s indigenous, nature-based Shinto faith with the original purposes of purification and pacification.

Long processions of floats with halberds; one float for each region of the land, were also to be made. As well as every year since then, as per tradition, a local boy is be chosen as a sacred messenger to the gods, called an “o-chigo-san”. For a Kyoto family, having one of their children selected for this role, is indeed a highly esteemed honor.

Once chosen, the child will undergo rigorous month-long purification rites, making them a better vehicle for the divine energies summoned during the festival. Rites such as only eating specially-prepared foods, as well as not allowing the child’s feet to come in contact with the ground, therefore, carried from place to place the entire month-long duration of the festival.

The o-chigo-san rides in the first float, the “Naginata-Boko” float in the procession, instantly recognizable by the halberd sword on top of its central pole, which according to legend possesses mystical, and healing properties.

An elaborate ritual with prayer on July 1st asking the many healing deities of Yasaka Shrine for divine protection, begins the Gion Matsuri’s festivities, with the most highly anticipated main events being the “Saki” Matsuri (early festival) procession on July 17, and the “Ato” Matsuri (later festival) procession on July 24th.

During the Saki Matsuri procession, deities leave the Gion area’s Yasaka Shrine, purifying and giving blessings throughout the city streets. One week later, during the Ato Matsuri, the procession will take the reverse direction, returning its deities back to their home Yasaka Shrine.

The exquisite, intricately decorated festival floats of each procession are called “Hoko”, and the smaller festival carts “Yama”, collectively called “Yama-Hoko”, and due to their size and weight, can require up to 40 men to hand-pull the float through Kyoto’s main city streets. Each one contains deep spiritual significance which is related to its own central neighborhood where it will be carefully constructed.

“Yamaboko-tate” is the special name given to the constructing, and also for the displaying of the Hoko and Yama. Each year this revered event takes place out in the open, where for several days prior to the processions, visitors have the rare opportunity to observe master craftsmen still utilizing “no-nail” joinery that has been preserved and passed down through the ages.

It’s especially important to note, that the Hoko and Yama from each of the two processions are distinctly different, and all together total 34 structures still being made. Below, are photos of one of our absolute favorites, and perhaps the most unusual, the Ofuna-Boko of the Ato Matsuri procession, built uniquely in the style of an ancient ship, which is being constructed in the same spot as it has been for centuries, on Shinmachi Street, in the center of Kyoto.

“Ofuna-Boko”, shown here in its beginning stages.

“No-nail” traditional joinery utilizing wood, bamboo and rope, for the intricate under-structure of Ofuna-Boko; which for the most part, will be hidden from view when completely finished.

Next, layer by layer Ofuna-Boko’s textiles are attached, covering much of the richly woven under-structure.

In 2021, for the very first time, something very special took place. The carved wooden dragon which is always positioned at the front of the Ofuna-Boko, was given a glimmering layer of gold-leaf.

Japanese dragons are important, honored ancestors of the Emperor; protective guardians of mankind; and also represent bravery, wisdom, and strength.

One of Ofuna-Boko’s massive wooden wheels, around 2 meters in diameter.

This is the Ofuna-Boko in the 2019 Gion Matsuri procession, (before the Covid-19 pandemic), being hand-pulled through the streets of Kyoto, before the application of precious of gold-leaf.

Ofuna-Boko, during the 2019 Gion Matsuri procession.

Meticulously hand-built and elaborately decorated, each Hoko has its own theme, and its own charm; with some floats reaching up to 25 meters (40 feet) in height, and weighing up to 12 tons.

Once their construction is completed, young traditional musicians will take their positions inside the Hoko, and perform for 3 consecutive evenings before, and also during both processions, each Hoko having its own distinct arrangement of the centuries-old music.

Since the Gion Matsuri is deeply steeped in tradition, religion and history, a festival preservation society is constantly at work busily preparing for the Gion Matsuri event all year, restoring ancient textiles, and ensuring that each year’s festival continues to stay as close to the original as possible.

Each year, new groups of young musicians must be trained; with the festival music being an intrical part of the event’s tradition. The music is quite often heard being practiced months and months in advance filtering from an open window in the areas of Kyoto where the Hoko will be constructed.

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the 2020 festival had to be completely cancelled, and in 2021 and 2022, a handful of selected Hoko were constructed for display purposes only, in order to pass down and insure that important traditional carpentry methods could be preserved. This year’s festival 2023 after a 3 year wait, will surely to be a year to remember!!

For well over 1,000 years, the Gion Matsuri festival has been a conduit for divine energy; serving as Kyoto’s prayer for the protection of its local people, and its international guests. A tradition of stability; celebrating health and well-being, providing us with needed courage in the face of adversity, and reminding us to live each and every day fully, Kyoto’s ever-shining triumph of spirit.

Kyoto’s Ofuna-Boko, a beloved symbol of resilience, and perseverance.

The GION MATSURI is a designated UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Event.