The History of the Japanese Aloha Shirt
The aloha shirt is an icon of island style—bright, bold, and effortlessly stylish. But few know that its story is deeply intertwined with Japanese culture and craftsmanship. The Japanese Aloha Shirt carries a unique blend of Hawaiian spirit and centuries-old kimono traditions, creating a piece of wearable art that is both cultural and modern.
Origins of the Aloha Shirt
When people think of aloha shirts, Hawaii often comes to mind. However, their origins are closely tied to Japanese immigrants in the early 20th century. Many Japanese workers in Hawaii’s sugarcane fields and refineries—who made up about 70% of the workforce by 1902—wore shirts called palaka, which resembled the traditional Japanese cotton kasuri. Some Japanese immigrants even remade kimonos they brought from Japan into palaka-style shirts, or tailored shirts for their children. These handmade creations caught the attention of locals and gradually spread, becoming the earliest form of the aloha shirt.
These shirts were more than clothing; they told a story of cultural exchange, blending Japanese design sensibilities with the colorful, relaxed aesthetic of Hawaiian fashion.
Aloha Shirts and Hawaiian Shirts
A key part of aloha shirt history involves Musashiya Shoten, a Japanese fabric shirt manufacturer founded in 1904. Records show the company used the term “aloha shirt” in advertisements as early as 1935. In 1937, Ellery J. Chang registered the “aloha shirt” trademark, granting him exclusive rights for 20 years. During that period, other makers used the term “Hawaiian shirt” instead.
Today, the terms “aloha shirt” and “Hawaiian shirt” are often used interchangeably. While opinions differ on which is technically correct, “aloha shirt” has become the widely recognized term more than 50 years after the trademark expired.
Evolution Over Time
Aloha shirts have continued to evolve over the years, beginning with silk, then rayon until the 1950s, and polyester in the 1960s. Not only have the patterns changed, but the predominant materials have also changed to suit the times. Among these, the rayon aloha shirts of the time are highly valued as vintage, and even today, elaborate reproductions are sold. Rayon is not only refreshingly comfortable to wear, but is also known for its beautiful color, leading to its nickname "artificial silk." With the advent of rayon, the unique textiles and vibrant color schemes of aloha shirts have further evolved.
However, at the time, there were no factories in Hawaii that could dye the fabric used for aloha shirts, so fabric dyed in Japan was imported. Kyoto, where Pagong is located, was a famous production area and was actively produced throughout World War II, suggesting that Japanese people were deeply involved in both the origin and production of aloha shirts.
Popularity in the 20th Century
Aloha shirts became popular as Hawaii became a tourist destination, reaching their peak in the 1950s, partly due to the influence of superstar Elvis Presley. Aloha shirt production in Hawaii became the second largest industry after sugar and pineapple. Polyester, introduced in the 1960s, was easy to care for and durable, and aloha shirts made from polyester fabric rapidly became an integral part of our daily lives. Today, aloha shirts are beloved as everyday wear around the world, and in Japan, a uniquely evolved style called "kariyushi wear" has emerged. Aloha shirts have also become a major trend in the fashion scene, with a variety of brands, both major fashion houses and fast fashion brands, releasing them and embracing them as a sophisticated accessory among fashionistas.
Pagong and Aloha Shirts
Pagong's aloha shirts were born from the desire to share the thousands of wonderful designs that had been lying dormant in the company's warehouse with more people around the world. Just like the aloha shirts of the time, they use fabric dyed using the hand-printing technique, and all of the stencils used for dyeing are made by Taniguchi Takayuki, a traditional Kyo-Yuzen craftsman. The many designs that have been reborn with the sensibilities cultivated through "Kyo-Yuzen Kimono" are then passed on to various other artisans to be finished into aloha shirts.
The Art of Kyoto: How Our Aloha Shirts Are Made
We’d love to share a closer look at our process! See how each Pagong Aloha Shirt is carefully hand-dyed and crafted by our skilled artisans in Kyoto. Watch the video and enjoy the artistry behind every piece.
Pagong has its own dyeing factory, where Yuzen dyeing artisans dye the patterns every day. At first glance, it may seem like a simple, repetitive task, but the delicate details of the plant, such as the veins of leaves, are expressed using a technique called shading. To faithfully reproduce this shading, the dye must be applied evenly from start to finish, and the amount of pressure must be adjusted depending on the fabric, while paying close attention to any misalignment of the pattern. This is a process that requires constant delicacy and patience. The dyed fabric is then steamed, washed, and dried to form a bolt of fabric, which is then tailored into an aloha shirt.
In recent years, Pagong has collaborated with art museums and incorporated works by Japan’s leading artists, such as Katsushika Hokusai and Ito Jakuchu, into its aloha shirts. Through these efforts, Pagong continues to weave a new chapter in the history of aloha shirts, connecting Kyoto craftsmanship with modern fashion.
Why the Japanese Aloha Shirt is Unique
Unlike mass-produced shirts, Japanese Aloha Shirts are:
Handmade with care using traditional dyeing techniques
Inspired by centuries-old Japanese motifs
Crafted from high-quality silk or cotton, ensuring comfort and elegance
A true story of cultural fusion, perfect for those who appreciate art, history, and fashion.
Explore the Collection
From the handmade dyeing studios of Kyoto, the Japanese Aloha Shirt tells a story of craftsmanship, creativity, and cultural exchange. Discover Pagong’s collection of silk and kimono-inspired aloha shirts and bring home a piece of this rich heritage.
